THE SEA CHAIR PROJECT by KIEREN JONES, ALEXANDER GROVES, AZUSA MURAKAMI, an exhibit at the SURFACE TENSION exhibition at the SCIENCE GALLERY, Trinity College, Dublin in 2011 A 'plastic soup' of waste floats in the Pacific Ocean. Growing at an alarming rate, it is already double the area of the United States. This plastic waste doesn't sink and it takes thousands of years to degrade. Plastic fragments include a large amount of nurdles, plastic pellets about 2mm in diameter that are the virgin raw material for injection moulding. These nurdles can be found littered on almost every shoreline in the world, and the United Nations estimates that there are 13000 nurdles floating in every square mile of the ocean. How can we solve the problem of accumulating plastic in our oceans? The Sea Chair Project aims to turn a retired fishing trawler into a plastic chair factory, fishing the plastic from the polluted seas and beaches around the South West coast of the UK. With the EU unveiling plans to pay fisherman for plastic by-catch, and advances in the development of nets for collecting plastics with minimal damage to marine wildlife, a floating factory ship that recycles this marine waste into sea chairs would support fishing communities and make use of their rich and diverse skill sets. Integral to this plan is the 'Nurdler', a hand-powered water pump that sorts micro plastic from larger and denser materials and collects washed up plastic from the shore.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
How To Winterize Your Boat
Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.
The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat's fuel tank is full - leave just a little room for expansion - and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn't full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.
Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.
Protecting Your Engine
Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it's warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.
When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray "fogging oil" inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.
Replace the engine's old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.
Outboards
Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.
If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.
It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.
Propeller
This is also a good time to check your boat's propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.
Clean, Clean, Clean
Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.
To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.
Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they'll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.
Empty The Head
Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner's manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won't damage your system.
Water Tanks
Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.
Put it on Blocks
If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.
If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you'll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.
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Friday, December 16, 2011
MAP500KT 500 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
!±8±MAP500KT 500 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
Brand : MarinAireRate :
Price :
Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 13:32:22
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
MarinAire Pumps stand at the extreme edge in the field Hi-Tech Magnetic Pumps. MAP series pumps designed to pump fresh water, salt water, highly corrosive chemicals and solutions. MAP series feature leak proof, seal-less magnetic drives and are designed for in-line, non-submersed use. They have a unique design with stylish appearance. In particular, it's bearing adopt ceramic material with special formula featuring strong resistance to abrasion and corrosion. MAP series also feature low power consumption, low starting current and high energy efficiency.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
Part 1 - The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Chs 01-07)
Part 1. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Mark F. Smith. Playlist for The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle: www.youtube.com
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Sunday, November 27, 2011
Quicksilver Body/ Impeller Kit
!±8± Quicksilver Body/ Impeller Kit
Brand : Quicksilver | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 28, 2011 01:18:53 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Nov 28, 2011 01:18:53 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
model serial range Mercruiser 200 (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B774444 Mercruiser 5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1988-1995 0B774445 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 230 (4 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B773739 Mercruiser 5.0LX (4 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1988-1995 0B773740 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 260 (2 BBL.) GM 350 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B773304 Mercruiser 5.7L (2 BBL.) GM 350 V-8 1988-1995 0B525982 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 350 MAG. ALPHA GM 350 V-8 1987-1995 0B525982 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 200 (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B774444 Mercruiser 5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1988-1995 0B774445 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 230 (4 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B773739 Mercruiser 5.0LX (4 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1988-1995 0B773740 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 260 (2 BBL.) GM 350 V-8 1987 0B525982 THRU 0B773304 Mercruiser 5.7L (2 BBL.) GM 350 V-8 1988-1995 0B525982 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 350 MAG. ALPHA GM 350 V-8 1987-1995 0B525982 THRU 0F600999 Mercruiser 5.7L EFI (2 BBL.-TBI) GM 350 V-8 1996 0F752400 THRU 0K001505 Mercruiser 5.7LX EFI (4 BBL.-TBI) GM 350 V-8 1996 0F752400 THRU 0K001505 Mercruiser 5.7L ALPHA EFI (TBI) GM 350 V-8 1995 0F355305 THRU 0F752389 Mercruiser 5.7L BRAVO EFI (TBI) GM 350 V-8 1995 0F225560 THRU 0F752399 Mercruiser 5.7L EFI MIE GM 350 V-8 1997 0K040300 THRU 0K261160
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Friday, November 25, 2011
2007 SeaFox 216 WA a airing about fishing baiter with 150 hp Suzuki 4 stroke
2007 Sea Fox 216 WA Standard Features Hull & Deck Anchor locker Courtesy lights (2) Euro-transom w/2 walk-through gates & telescoping boarding ladder Foam cored hull & deck Gunwale rod storage Insulated fish boxes (2) Isothalic gel coat Raised grab rail at bow SST cup holders (6) SST hardware SST rub rail SST Sea Fox logo rod holders (4) SST through-bolted rails SST through hulls Cockpit & Cabin Audible high bilge water alarm Coaming pads Custom cabin cushions Fixed port lights (2) Large cabin top hatch Lockable cabin door Marine grade vinyl w/PreFixx® Non-skid deck surface Removable cabin table Self-bailing cockpit Stern jump seats (2) w/backrests & cushions Upgraded pedestal seats (2) Wrap-around windshield Helm & Systems 12-volt power point Aerated live well (40 gallons) Automatic bilge pump Battery switch Compass Dash space for flush electronics Fuel/water separator Full instrumentation* Horn Navigation lights Portable toilet Raw water washdown Recessed trim tabs Remote oil fill (2 strokes) Sink in cabin w/hand pump Tilt hydraulic steering Upgraded steering wheel w/turning knob.
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Jabsco 31605-0092 Marine ParMax 3 Washdown Water Pump Kit (3.5-GPM, 50-PSI, 12-Volt, 15-Amp)
!±8± Jabsco 31605-0092 Marine ParMax 3 Washdown Water Pump Kit (3.5-GPM, 50-PSI, 12-Volt, 15-Amp)
Brand : Jabsco | Rate : | Price : $151.99
Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 18:38:13 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $151.99Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 18:38:13 | Usually ships in 24 hours
- 3 Year Warranty
More Specification..!!
Jabsco 31605-0092 Marine ParMax 3 Washdown Water Pump Kit (3.5-GPM, 50-PSI, 12-Volt, 15-Amp)
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Wednesday, November 16, 2011
24' Pursuit '96 Used Boat For Sale $12999 Water Test Part 2
Located in Venice, Fl. Call Coastal Marine at 888-459-0227 or email sales@cmcboats.com for more info. 1996 24 ft. Pursuit Denali, 5.7L Volvo Penta, fuel injected, fresh water cooled, 266 hrs., cuddy cabin, head, Clarion stereo with cassette player, bimini top, full camper enclosure, full cockpit cover (from windshield to stern), Hummingbird Matrix 37, compass, hour meter, speedometer, tachometer, trim gauge, anchor & line, fenders, fire extinguisher, battery with switch, oil, fuel, volt, & temp. gauges, 2 cockpit speakers, 2 cabin speakers, stainless steel props, swim ladder. NEW raw water pump, ignition wires, cap rotor, and fuel filters! Runs Great! Trailer not included, new & used trailers are available, call for pricing. www.usedboatwarehouse.com http
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Friday, November 11, 2011
Underground Irrigation Repair Without Digging - All it Takes is a Heat Gun!
I developed this irrigation repair technique out of desperation. A sprinkler head had launched itself out of the ground right beside me one day and landed in a potted plant. The resulting geyser was spectacular, but the location was horrible!
The area around this particular sprinkler head was surrounded in paving stone and brick, and worse, right up against a fence. To make things harder, I had installed a french-drain only a foot away! The riser's nipple was missing. Sure enough, a replacement stand-pipe wouldn't even begin to screw in! Obviously, the broken off part of the nipple was stuck in the t-connector - deep underground! Before I developed this technique, I would have had to dig lateral trenches about 2' long on each side of the connector, cut the supply lines off each end of the connector, added a sleeve and spacer, then glued in a replacement t-connector. Not this time! There was too much involved in digging this connector out of the ground!
I have a special purpose tool I'd bought from The Home Depot just for this problem. It's the PVC variant of an "easy-out." Unfortunately, it wouldn't work! I couldn't get enough pressure (the connector was buried just about the extractor's full length), and I kept scraping my knuckles against a fence post. The stand-pipe wasn't PVC, it was vinyl. It was so slick, the knife edges of the extractor wouldn't bite into the inside edge.
But vinyl melts! I have a 1200 watt heat gun I'd bought for paint stripping. The extractor's tip is metal and by using this heat gun, I got the extractor's tip hot. Real hot. Sizzling hot! By pushing the extractor straight down the hole, it gently melted into the broken off nipple - deep underground! I let it set and cool for a few minuets before giving it a twist. Two seconds later, the broken off nipple was extracted!
After screwing in a replacement riser, I cycled the irrigation pump to that zone to rinse out all of the dirt that had fallen into the connector. I put a new sprinkler head on the replacement riser, and guess what? That irrigation repair was done. Not only done, I didn't have to dig one spade of dirt!
The trick was heating up the extractor's tip hot enough to melt into the broken off vinyl nipple to get a grip.
A few weeks later, I had a different problem. I had mounted new window boxes along one side wall of my home and wanted to use my in-ground irrigation system to water the new flowers. I had a capped off riser right where I need to place a 4' riser. Unfortunately, this was an old steel riser that I'd bumped into several times with the mower, and when I removed the pipe it left the t-connector's threads stripped and choked with rust-scale! Unlike most of my irrigation repair projects, this line is very shallow. Shallow enough for me to scrape away the top to really see the damage.
There wasn't anything I could do to thread the new riser into place, I was going to have to replace the t-connector - or maybe not. I have a pretty complete shop and I have metal working tools to tap holes for screw threads, or cut outside threads for bolts. Since I had to go to The Home Depot or Lowe's anyway for a replacement t-connector, why not see if they had a tool for pipe threads?
The staff at Lowe's laughed when I asked them for a tool to cut internal 1/2" pipe thread for an underground PVC t-connector! Their only advice was to dig it up and replace it. No Way! The staff at The Home Depot didn't laugh out loud, but they also suggested replacement fittings.
I did buy the fittings, but I also found the perfect tool - an 18" length of 1/2" steel pipe! Once again, the 1200 watt heat gun came to the rescue. By heating the pipe end, the thread section, I was able to plunge it into the buried t-connector. It sizzled as it sank in and I quickly worked it in deeper as I screwed it into place. Without letting it sit, I unscrewed the steel pipe to prevent it from welding into place. I repeated this operation several times until all of the pipe's threaded section was within the t-connector's nipple.
Guess what? The new replacement 4' PVC riser threaded itself right in! By using heat, pressure, and steel threads, I was able to partially melt the underground t-connector and cut new threads. Not a spade full of dirt was dug up for this irrigation repair!
Since then, I've helped neighbors with their irrigation repair projects that left them amazed - "you can actually cut new threads underground without having to dig" - Wow, thanks Bill, real big thanks!
Not all irrigation repairs can use this technique. Let's face it, if the t-connector's nipple or connecting pipes crack or break, you will have to dig. But try this tip first and see if it works. You'll know within minuets if there's a more serious problem. You'll get wet standing there, but you'll quickly see upwelling around the sprinkler head in operation if there's a broken pipe or cracked nipple. Oh well, at least you gave it a try!
I've had this cheap heat gun for more than twenty years. Not only does it do a great job lifting paint, I've used it for boat electrical repairs (heat-shrink tubing), removing self-adhesive vinyl tile, contact paper, and sanding disks, and even starting fires in my charcoal pit. This is NOT a hair dryer - keep safe, keep it away from you at all times!
In conclusion, I was able to use my cheap heat gun and cheaper steel pipe to apply enough heat and pressure to re-mold stripped out internal threads, and enough raw heat to let another tool's edges cut into material that without that tool, would have required digging lots of dirt for these simple irrigation repair projects!
Saturday, October 22, 2011
MAP300KT 300 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
!±8± MAP300KT 300 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
Brand : MarinAire | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Oct 22, 2011 22:18:19 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Oct 22, 2011 22:18:19 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
MarinAire Pumps stand at the extreme edge in the field Hi-Tech Magnetic Pumps. MAP series pumps designed to pump fresh water, salt water, highly corrosive chemicals and solutions. MAP series feature leak proof, seal-less magnetic drives and are designed for in-line, non-submersed use. They have a unique design with stylish appearance. In particular, it's bearing adopt ceramic material with special formula featuring strong resistance to abrasion and corrosion. MAP series also feature low power consumption, low starting current and high energy efficiency.
More Specification..!!
Thursday, October 20, 2011
MAP600KT 600 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
!±8± MAP600KT 600 GPH, salt water, fresh water, Chemical and acid pump, 110V
Brand : MarinAire | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Oct 20, 2011 19:00:10 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Oct 20, 2011 19:00:10 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
MarinAire Pumps stand at the extreme edge in the field Hi-Tech Magnetic Pumps. MAP series pumps designed to pump fresh water, salt water, highly corrosive chemicals and solutions. MAP series feature leak proof, seal-less magnetic drives and are designed for in-line, non-submersed use. They have a unique design with stylish appearance. In particular, it's bearing adopt ceramic material with special formula featuring strong resistance to abrasion and corrosion. MAP series also feature low power consumption, low starting current and high energy efficiency.
- Designed for highly corrosive liquids and environments
- Hi-Tech Magnetic sealless pump with high head pressure
- Low energy consumption and high efficiency
- Low starting current
- Pefect for salt water circulation or chemical transfer.
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